Stockholm

Winters are long, but after finding some impromptu cheap flights, my college BFF Dora and I decided to fly to Stockholm for a long weekend. People don’t often like to travel in the winter to cold destinations, but cold destinations allow you to do a lot of winter sports and things you wouldn’t otherwise be able to do in the summer (like ice skating!) Check out our wintery adventures in Stockholm!

Day 1 (Thursday Feb 15)

Landed and hung out and did some work at Cosy Cafe in Gamla Stan (Stockholm’s old town)

Dinner at Pharmarium, a super cool restaurant and cocktail bar that had a speakeasy feel to it. Each dish and cocktail comes paired together. I got a scallop dish and a cocktail that came with a little bottle of Pop Rocks! #throwback

Lodging – Hotel Gyllene Geten (Golden Goat). A small, little boutique inn right in the main square of the old town (Gamla Stan).

Day 2 (Friday Feb 16)

Spent the day exploring Söldermalm, the island right south of Gamla Stan in the archipelago. Lots of people call it the “Williamsburg of Stockholm” because it’s home to lots of cute and interesting shops, cafes, and an artsy/entrepreneurial crowd.

Lunch – Meatballs for the People. Like a plate of IKEA meatballs, but the real thing, obviously

Fika –“Functioning as both a verb and a noun, the concept of fika is simple. It is the moment that you take a break, often with a cup of coffee, but alternatively with tea, and find a baked good to pair with it. You can do it alone, you can do it with friends. You can do it at home, in a park or at work. But the essential thing is that you do it, that you make time to take a break: that’s what fika is all about.” More about fika here

Fika is a big part of Swedish culture and people in Sweden take their coffee very seriously, so Dora and I built in time every afternoon in our trip to be able to spend some time having coffee.

Our stop on our first day was at Johan & Nyström

Fotografiska – a really amazing and beautiful photography museum. There happened to be an exhibit by Chinese photographer Chen Man, which we really loved! This museum is also definitely worth the visit while you’re in Stockholm not only because of the cool photography itself, but because it also has really beautiful views of the water and a restaurant/cafe where you can eat and enjoy the view!

Dinner – Asahi Fondue & Grill because there’s no better way to celebrate Chinese New Year than with all you can eat hot pot in Stockholm!

Day 3 (Saturday Feb 17)

Dora and I really wanted to do something wintry, outdoorsy, and active while we were in Sweden, since we were there in the middle of February and there would be tons of beautiful wintry nature sights to see! We ended up deciding to spend the day going Nordic skiing and it was the most awesome experience ever!

These were the guides we booked the tour through:

Nordic skating around the archipelago around Stockholm was the coolest but also most terrifying experiences ever. Skating on an actual, frozen lake means that the ice moves and makes sounds underneath you as you’re skating, and it sounds like it’s going to crack at any moment! Of course, we had a guide who was experienced in listening to the pitch and sounds of the ice and identifying the parts that were safe to skate on.

For safety, we wore ice picks around our necks that we would use if we fell in and there was also a rope and dry clothes in the backpacks we carried, which also conveniently served as a flotation devices if we were to fall in.

This National Geographic video about Nordic skating was filmed in Stockholm near where we went skating and inspired us to want to do this while we were there. Listen to the sounds the ice makes in the video!

We got back to Stockholm in the evening and spent some time warming up, drinking hot chocolate, and writing postcards in a cute little cafe Kaffekoppen that was right next to our hotel.

Post-Dinner CocktailsTweed, a nautical-themed speakeasy-style bar

We got these fun cocktails and cozied up in comfy chairs.

Day 4 (Sunday Feb 18)

Island-hopping around the archipelago (aka Karen and Dora eating our way through Stockholm)

Walking around the commercial and shopping district of the Norrmalm area of Stockholm

Fabrique – breakfast, great pastries/bread.

These cinnamon and cardamom buns are a staple of Swedish cafes and bakeries. They’re very tasty with a cup of coffee and are a big part of fika and Swedish coffee culture.

Vasa Museum – an awesome Viking ship that sunk in the Stockholm harbors and was recovered from the bottom of the sea and restored

Lunch – Snickarbacken 7

Fika & Pastries – Vete Katten. I think we’ve lost count of how many cups of coffee we’ve had in Stockholm at this point

Dinner – Hairy Pig Deli. Probably one of my favorite meals. Dora and I ordered way too much, but ended our last supper in Stockholm together on a great note

In the middle of the snowy main square of Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s old town

Day 5 (Monday Feb 19)

Dora left on an early morning flight so I spent most of the morning by myself on a run exploring the rest of Stockholm in the snow before packing up and heading back to New York.

Ostermalm Saluhall – fun market with tons of food stands, shops, and things to nibble on

  • Robert’s Coffee – pastries & coffee (more cardamom buns!)
  • Willy Ohlsson – meats and cheeses. I brought back some reindeer salami!
  • Vete Katten – bakery/pastries
Wandering the Ostermalm Saluhall
Thanks for a wonderful and wintry weekend full of food and adventures, Stockholm!

Iceland

Day 1 (Sunday November 19)

Blue Lagoon – Headed straight from the airport on the first bus to the Blue Lagoon at 7:30 am (if you’re not renting a car, I would definitely recommend buying a round trip from the airport -> Blue Lagoon -> Reykjavik -> back to airport from Reyjkavik Excursions). This turned out to be perfect for a few reasons:

  • The lagoon is near the airport and closer to the airport than Reykjavik
  • We were the first group to get there when it opened so it wasn’t as crowded as it normally is later in the day
  • It was still pitch black when we arrived and it gave the lagoon a cool, eerie feel that you don’t get during the day, and we got to watch the sun rise which was incredible!
  • There’s nothing better after a long flight and jetlag than relaxing in the warm waters of the lagoon

Reykjavik

Harpa Music Hall – SO beautiful, especially at sunset

Dinner – Svarta KaffidThis was a super cute and cozy cafe, recommended by our host at Heida’s Home. She told us it was the best soup in town, and it’s true – it was the best bowl of soup ever!!!

The only thing they serve each day is two types of soups for $18 (which is fairly reasonable considering Iceland is so expensive) – you just pick the one you want and they scoop it into a bread bowl and it’s hearty, and delicious, and perfect after a chilly day walking around Reykjavik

Lodging – Heida’s Home (very homey, cute, and has kitchens)

Day 2 (Monday November 20)

Thingvellir National Park – site of Ireland’s first parliament, beautiful views

Gullfoss “Golden Waterfall” – huge and so beautiful

Stopped to pet some Icelandic horses – small and furry and so cute!

They didn’t seem to like Willy quite as much…or maybe they liked him too much?

Geysir Geothermal Area – lunch

Fjadrargljufur Canyon

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall – normally in the summer you can walk around behind it, but in the winter the path behind the waterfall is too icy/frozen to walk

Dinner – Eldstó Art Café – Hvolsvollur is a tiny little village, so other than the restaurant at the hotel, there are basically three places to eat: some pizza place, a buffet, and this cafe (we just wanted a warm bowl of soup so we opted for this cafe)

Northern lights in Hvolsvöllur

Northern lights – it was a clear night and we were in a tiny village with very little light pollution so the conditions were perfect to catch the Northern lights. We met this woman from Brazil who had a DSLR camera but didn’t know how to use the slow shutter speed setting to capture photos of the Northern lights, so we taught her how to use her camera and we took these fun slow shutter speed photos.

Day 3 (Tuesday November 21)

Glacier hiking at Sólheimajökull – This was probably one of the coolest days. We got crampons and went glacier hiking and got to go in this cool mini ice cave!

Reynisfjara – Black Sand Beach

We were supposed to continue on, but a huge snowstorm was coming so we were forced to spend the night and not go any further

Day 4 (Wednesday November 22)

Sadly, because of the snow storm, we weren’t able to go to the ice caves at Vatnajökull glacier or to the diamond beach, which were the parts I was most excited about.

Ended up having a relaxing day at a museum and cafe

We hit up a couple more waterfalls on our way back to Reykjavik

Skógafoss Waterfall

Urriðafoss Falls

Dinner – Osta Budin – Traditional Icelandic food. The food here was good and interesting (we had reindeer and some other weird meats), but definitely pricey (though food is pricey in general in Iceland)

The Vatican: a rainy escapade

The Vatican is one of the most visited places in not just Rome but the entire world. Each day, tons of tourists, worshippers, or just curious people come to visit St. Peter’s Basilica and see the famous paintings that Michelangelo painted on the ceiling and walls of the Sistine Chapel. We knew coming in beforehand that The Vatican will be one of the most crowded sites, so in preparation, we got up really early in the morning, got to St. Peter’s Basilica by around 9am, and were able to enjoy the beautiful basilica in mostly peace and quiet before the masses of tour groups and other visitors showed up. Indeed, it was one of the most intricately decorated, larger than life, and beautiful piece of interior architecture I’d ever seen!

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After walking through St. Peter’s Basilica and climbing up to the dome, we went to the Vatican Museum to see the Sistine Chapel.

Roma: this is where dreams are made of

Dora, Anna, and I watched the Lizzie McGuire movie after arriving on our first night in Rome, and the movie got us super pumped up for this exciting city. We also started making a long list of movies that are set in Rome/are about Rome/are related to things in Rome and it just made us realize how much of the world is in love with Rome. So in the next few days we’ll see if we’ll get a chance to fall in love with this city too!

The first afternoon we arrived, we went to the Colosseum and the Roman Forum, two of the main attractions of Rome.

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The Colosseum with all our friends!

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Palatine Hill and view of the Roman Forum and surrounding area

The next day we walked around and got some pretty cool views of Rome from the top of the Vittoriano and then headed to the Pantheon. Around the afternoon, it started to rain, but weirdly, it was perfect for seeing the Pantheon because the Pantheon has a large hole at the top of its dome so when it rains, you just see one large stream of water that comes down like a waterfall. It was pretty cool.

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After walking around, seeing the Trevi Fountain (which unfortunately was under construction so didn’t have any water in it) and finding this really nice hole in the wall restaurant near the area, we found a place to watch the World Cup. None of us were particularly into soccer, but tonight’s game was England vs. Italy and where better to watch the game than in Rome itself where there would be tons of excited soccer fans around?

We found a bar in the Trastevere area to watch the game and sure enough it was very exciting! After Italy won, people stormed out and celebrated on the streets, cars honked as they drove by and everyone seemed to be waving Italy flags around. It was definitely an incredible experience to be a part of.

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Pisa: leaning in

Today was mostly a travel day. We left Florence after lunch and took a short train ride to Pisa to see the Leaning Tower of Pisa. The little town of Pisa really doesn’t have a whole lot to offer but it the short walk from the train station to the tower gave us a sense of the town and the nice river that flowed through it.

When we got to the tower, there were tons of people lined around the grassy square taking photos, so of course we did our classic “Leaning Tower of Pisa” photo. Then we climbed the 300 steps up to the top of the tower.

After hanging out for a bit, we had to go catch our train to Rome. The train ride was actually really beautiful – it ran along the west coast of Italy so we got beautiful views of the Tuscany countryside and the coast. Four hours of beautiful water, rolling hills, and sunset later, we arrive tired and ready to rest up for a few exciting days in Roma!

Florence: birthplace of the renaissance

We didn’t have high expectations coming to Florence. We knew that there were lots of art museums and churches to see (this is of course the birthplace of the Italian Renaissance and famous for the works of Michelangelo and the legacy or the powerful Medici family), but we didn’t expect Florence to be so beautiful.

Because we only had about a day in Florence (our train from Venice got in about noon and we leave for Pisa/Rome tomorrow), we knew that we didn’t have a lot of time to browse the art museums fully. So we instead followed a walking tour suggested by Trip Advisor and the receptionist at or hotel that took us all around the city.

We started off at some of the chapels commissioned by the Medici family (whose wealth and political and religious influence allowed them commission lots of architecture and art to glorify their family). Many of the ceilings of the Medici chapels were painted my Michelangelo and were beautifully intricate.

Next we set off for the Duomo, the huge dome structure that undoubtedly is the centerpiece of the Florence skyline. Following suggestions on Trip Advisor, we climbed the 400 steps of the bell tower next to the dome instead of the dome itself to get a nice view of the city (and a nice view of the dome next door)

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View of the Duomo and surrounding city from the top of the bell tower

After taking a look at the other cathedrals and chapels around the area, we headed off to this small gelato shop called Vivoli hidden away on a street for what Trip Advisor says is the “best gelato in all of Italy.” Sure enough, the gelato was great and the little shop had been owned by the same family for generations.

After taking a stroll and having dinner at the Piazza Della Signoria, which is the center of secular life, with the town hall and a number of sculptures (including a replica of Michelangelo’s famous David), we walked across the Ponte Vecchio bridge up a hill to the Piazzale Michelangelo (clearly this city loves Michelangelo).

From the top of this hill, we got amazing views of the entire city of Florence and sat there (with a bottle of Tuscany wine we bought earlier) and watched the city turn a hundred different colors as the sun set. Though our stay in Florence was short, we really got a taste of the grandeur of the medieval and renaissance period when Florence was the center of artistic and intellectual life, as well as the quaint lifestyle of the Tuscany region with its rolling hills, golden sunsets, good food and good wine.

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The hundred beautiful colors of the Tuscany sunset

Venice: truly a city of water

We realized by today that the entire time we’d been in Venice we hadn’t seen a single car. It’s probably because the roads here are basically alleyways and it would be laughable to try and drive a car here because or all the canals, bridges, and tiny roads. Instead, the people here get around primarily by boat. Instead of a subway or bus, the only form of public transportation in Venice is a system of boats that drive along various stops on the canals.

Today, we set off to explore some of the islands surrounding Venice. A twenty minute boat ride later, we arrived in Murano, an island known for its glasswork. Almost every store on the island sold “Murano glass” which ranged from small handiwork figurines of animals and jewelry to large chandeliers and vases.

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Murano glass

Next, we went to the island Burano which is known for it’s colorful little houses. We walked around the island looked around in some shops and then took the hour long boat ride back to the main island of Venice.

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The colorful little houses of Burano

For dinner, we tried cuttlefish spaghetti, this type of spaghetti that’s pretty famous here and made with this very black squid. The entire pasta is black and when you eat it, it stains your mouth and teeth black! I can’t say I was a huge fan of it, but it was kind of interesting to try!

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Eating cuttlefish spaghetti

After dinner, we walked around Academia Bridge, St. Marco’s Square and along the waters. We soon discovered Venice was most charming and beautiful at night for a stroll along the water or through one of the piazzas where musicians lines the squares and serenaded all the passersby with accordion or violin music. What a great end to our Venice trip!

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Gondolas in the Venetian sunset

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Venice: a stroll through a maze

We arrived in Venice from Barcelona around noon today but by the time we took the bus from the airport, checked into our hostel, and got settled in, it was already late afternoon. So around 4 we set out to find (a late) lunch and explore the city!

Pictures of Venice always show the beautiful waters, but Venice is really unique because of all the hundreds of tiny alleyways and streets and hidden canals that make it such a maze! One second we would be squeezing through a tiny alleyway that seems to just be sliced from in between two buildings and the next second it will open up on one of the tiny canals that leads to one of the dozens of tiny bridges all over the city. I feel like a hamster could be very happy in this maze of a city. I sure feel like a hamster here.

After a lot of winding and turning and bridge crossing we finally came upon the Grand Canal, the widest part of the canal where the Rialto Bridge is. This is one of the more touristy areas of Venice and dozens of the iconic Venetian gondolas lined the shores of the canal waiting to take people for an 80 euro ride along the canals (we opted to spend our 80 euros on better things).

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Barcelona: part one

Because we bought round trip tickets into Barcelona, we are doing one day today in Barcelona and then coming back for a few more days at the very end of trip.

We started the day off at Sagrada Familia, probably the hallmark site of Barcelona. It was designed by Gaudi (an architect from the region whose buildings and monuments can be seen all over the city) and construction started around 150 years ago, but was never finished (and still remained unfinished today). You can see that there are still cranes outside, but it sure looks incredible and stands as one of the tallest buildings in Barcelona:

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Next we climbed up to a hill near the northern part of the city to a place called Park Guell where we saw spectacular views of all of Barcelona below. The park is actually dedicated to a lot of the architecture and works of Gaudi so also has a lot of unique architectural structures:

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In the evening, we went to watch the Magical Fountain of Barcelona which was a cool fountain display timed to lights and music.

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Geneva: an unexpected surprise

I had a 9 hour layover in Geneva on my way to Barcelona so I decided to leave the airport and do a quick one-day exploration of Geneva. Luckily, the city of Geneva is extremely small (the airport is about 7 minutes from the city center) so 9 hours was the perfect amount of time to walk around the city, grab lunch, and see the United Nations building.

With a map in hand, we set off. I had remembered that my friend Megan was in Geneva for an internship at the World Health Organization, but we hadn’t gotten in touch with her before and didn’t have wifi, so we didn’t think much of it. Maybe less than 5 minutes after we got off the train, we spotted someone walking across the street, I called out to her, and sure enough, it was Megan!

She ended up walking around with us and showing us some of the places around the city.

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The famous water jet on Lake Geneva

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The flower clock

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In front of the United Nations